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Unread 01-28-2010, 08:25 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
I've been doing some research on bodies and apparently the LTC-R is suppose to have more steering than the Mazda Speed 6. Depending on the setup and driving style, do the guys running the 6 have enough steering? And on that track, is the steering more for entry, mid or exit?

The question in my mind is, what makes more sense: Start with the 6 and adjust the setup if you need more steering - or start with the LTC and then adjust the setup to give you less steering??
I would start with the Speed 6. Get a feel of the car and the track. Do suspension tuning and driving tunig.
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Unread 01-28-2010, 07:37 PM   #27
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I've raced last season with both. The Speed 6 is more stable and seems to turn better in the middle of the corner. The LTCR is more aggressive overall, but it feels like it's soft mid corner. When switching between the two bodies, I only made changes to dual rate or EPA.
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Unread 01-28-2010, 09:02 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
Thanks - and thanks for letting me know about your charger. I've been reading that the newer chargers come with built in balancers, which makes a lot of sense, but I'm not sure what the cons are to that - if any. I haven't had a chance to dive into chargers yet. Too many choices.
After some research, I heard and read alot of great things about the Hyperion EOS0606i and the Triton EQ. Both are AC/DC and compact and come with a whole bunch of balance tap adapters. One feature that the 0606i has is the lipo storage mode which discharges the pack to 50-60% (pretty sure it's adjustable)charge for storing over a week. A good feature considering I ruined a $130Thunder Power 5000 40c pack by stroring it fully charged over several months.
Another charger that has similar features is the new Dynamite Passport Ultra. I like the detachable power cords for that uncluttered look. It doesn't have the 0606i's storage mode unfortunately. This charger also deserves consideration. All these chargers mentioned are priced around $130.

I currently have a DC only Duratrax Ice that's powered by a Rivergate 30A PW and a separate Thunder Power TP-205V balancer which altogether is akward and bulky. I want to eventually get one of those chargers mentioned earlier to dowwnsize and declutter my setup.

About storage charge, I currently discharge the pack at 10A down to 7.4v (measured under load) with the Ice charger andd it usually gives me a resting voltage of 7.60-7.70V. A lightbulb discharger and a meter would also work.


Hope this helps!
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Last edited by FREAKAH; 01-28-2010 at 09:08 PM.
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Unread 01-30-2010, 07:41 AM   #29
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Hope this helps!
Yes! Very helpful! Thank you
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Unread 01-30-2010, 07:44 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pooh View Post
Spent more than I had planned but decided to get a more powerful charger just in case.
Ha ha. I think we all spend more than we plan too.
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Unread 01-30-2010, 08:21 AM   #31
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Jas0n from Maxamps put out a 10 minute video on the EOS0606i charger. He says you still have to buy a Kokam and/or Thunder Power balance board for use with those batteries. The error code beeping when he connects the battery is awesome! Surprised me for sure. Plus, he explains how to fix the situation.

The fact that you don't need a separate power supply for this charger is a big plus to me.



Then of course there is always this monster, the EOS 0615i DUO3 - only $270. Only - ha ha.


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Unread 01-30-2010, 09:39 AM   #32
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I was in the market for a top end lipo charger and it was between the Hyperion Duo3 and the Bantam BC8-DX. I went with the Bantam and very satisfied with it. The winning factor was the display and that you can hook it up to a computer and see all bells and whistles. FYI - I have owned Thunder power 610C and Hyperion 610, both are great compact chargers.

Bantam e-Station BC8DX Lipo Charger

I'll be at the track tomorrow if you want a demo.....
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Unread 01-30-2010, 09:04 PM   #33
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Did you guys know you can see the track in Google maps like if you were standing on Kupuohi Street? Click here.

Last edited by rmdhawaii; 01-30-2010 at 09:06 PM.
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Unread 01-30-2010, 09:22 PM   #34
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Cool aint it!

I was checking out my house and hood last week. Neat but kindy creepy at the same time.
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Unread 01-30-2010, 09:35 PM   #35
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Checked out the Bantams and the BC-6 looks to be comparable to the 0606i , Triton EQ and Passport ultra. I like that it balances on discharge also. Cost a little more but looks to be worth it.

I forgot to mention that the Passport Ultra can charge up to 8A max with it's 100w power supply. Great for more than 1C charging. The other chargers offer only a 50w ps and 5A max charge. That and it has a 5 year warranty.
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Unread 01-31-2010, 02:42 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by FREAKAH View Post
Neat but kindy creepy at the same time.
Yeah, for real.

Last edited by rmdhawaii; 01-31-2010 at 03:02 AM.
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Unread 01-31-2010, 09:35 PM   #37
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I thought the open track hours were different than what it reads now. Didn't open track start before noon? I must be getting old. Ha ha.

RC OPEN TRACK SCHEDULE
12:00 noon to 6:00 pm
Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays & Major Holidays

NOTE: We have Changed Our RC Open Track Hours
To Make Room Way For RC Family Events
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Unread 02-03-2010, 09:43 PM   #38
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Check this out!

HYPERION EOS0606I AC/DC CHARGER T-REX 250 450 500 600 - eBay (item 220550155910 end time Mar-03-10 19:13:36 PST)

Cool deal plus free shipping!
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Unread 02-12-2010, 01:16 AM   #39
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So I finally went through the trouble of understanding what all this "boost" nonsense is all about and it seems to me, that if you are new to electric, boost just adds a layer of complexity that you don't need until you can drive well and know how to properly get on and off the throttle. Turbo timing is a no-brainer, but it seems like you can get timing boost completely wrong and screw yourself without even knowing it. Even if you do copy someone else's esc setup, based on driving style and chassis setup, it might not be the right settings for you - and then based on course layout and direction (CW/CCW), you need to fine tune the settings.

Does this make sense or am I missing something??

Now that I think about it, this boost stuff reminds me of clutch and 2-speed settings on nitro. Ha ha.
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Unread 02-12-2010, 06:38 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
So I finally went through the trouble of understanding what all this "boost" nonsense is all about and it seems to me, that if you are new to electric, boost just adds a layer of complexity that you don't need until you can drive well and know how to properly get on and off the throttle. Turbo timing is a no-brainer, but it seems like you can get timing boost completely wrong and screw yourself without even knowing it. Even if you do copy someone else's esc setup, based on driving style and chassis setup, it might not be the right settings for you - and then based on course layout and direction (CW/CCW), you need to fine tune the settings.

Does this make sense or am I missing something??

Now that I think about it, this boost stuff reminds me of clutch and 2-speed settings on nitro. Ha ha.
Once you get a good setup you will only have to adjust gearing for the different layouts. One thing is a lot of people are over thinking it, when you really don't have to. Keep it simple and get a good handling setup for your car which I feel is more important.
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Unread 02-12-2010, 06:50 AM   #41
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Rmdhawaii, I don't know if you checked but wer'e starting a 17.5 "no timing boost" class next race. I'll be pulling out the borrowed Tekin RS and reinstalling my GTB just for this class.
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Unread 02-12-2010, 08:44 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by FJR View Post
Once you get a good setup you will only have to adjust gearing for the different layouts. One thing is a lot of people are over thinking it, when you really don't have to. Keep it simple and get a good handling setup for your car which I feel is more important.
So are you saying that once you set your timing boost, you don't fuss with it when you change your gearing?
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Unread 02-12-2010, 09:11 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by FREAKAH View Post
Rmdhawaii, I don't know if you checked but wer'e starting a 17.5 "no timing boost" class next race. I'll be pulling out the borrowed Tekin RS and reinstalling my GTB just for this class.
Yeah, I seen that. I'm still trying to figure out if I'm going to keep my GTB or buy a Tekin RS combo instead. My GTB is still new in the box, unopened. I don't want to "buy twice" if you know what I mean.

Anybody want to buy a new-in-box #1711 GTB Spread Spectrum Brushless/Brush ESC? Only $140.00.
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Unread 02-12-2010, 09:50 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
So are you saying that once you set your timing boost, you don't fuss with it when you change your gearing?
Pretty much...there is a wide range of settings that work very well so changing beyond that is just fine tuning for personal preference. Heck I haven't even changed my gearing for 3 tracks now...though I really should have on that last track.
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Unread 02-12-2010, 09:43 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
Yeah, I seen that. I'm still trying to figure out if I'm going to keep my GTB or buy a Tekin RS combo instead. My GTB is still new in the box, unopened. I don't want to "buy twice" if you know what I mean.

Anybody want to buy a new-in-box #1711 GTB Spread Spectrum Brushless/Brush ESC? Only $140.00.

In that case I would sell the GTB since it's easier to sell NIB.
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Unread 02-16-2010, 10:26 PM   #46
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After several weeks of reading, I finally finished going through the RCTECH T2, T2'007, T2'008, T2'009 and T3 threads. In between all the rubbish posts is a lot of really good information (mostly in the T2/'007 threads) and it's amazing how the type of posts and questions differ for each car. I've really been learning a lot.

For those that don't know...

- The T2 product line split into separate rubber tire (EU) and foamtire (US) chassis with the release of the '007.
- The '007's are not upgradable to the '008's. Too many changes.
- The consensus on the '009 seems to be that if you already own a '008, you don't really need to buy a '009.
- And the new T3, while based on the T2 platform, has a bunch of new parts on it again and there is no upgrade kit from the '008/009.

While each cars had it's little problems, upon the T3's release, due to what I would refer to as a design flaw, you could break your chassis in a crash or you could have a problem with the carbon fiber cracking/splitting around the screw holes; which was never a problem with it's predecessors. XRAY released replacement '1-piece suspension holders' to address the problem, but XRAY said they wouldn't be providing a replacement chassis ($95) if you broke it.

Every time a new car is released, you read drivers saying how much better the new car is than the old car - faster, easier to drive, easier to work on, better this, better that, blah, blah and I bet in a lot of people's mind, they are thinking that they have to buy the new car. And Xray's marketing machine is so good at telling people how good the new car is, you can't help but think how good the car must be. Everybody is so convincing that the new car is the 'must have' touring car upgrade. I can see how people can get sucked into spending money to get the latest and greatest.

But what those that don't buy Xray may not realize, is that Mr. Hudy is never satisfied with his work. He is always making changes to make the car more adjustable and "better" and as a result, the guy releases a new car every year - and I don't think he really cares or considers how much it costs the racer. Considering that the T3 is "new" and the Team guys didn't sweep the Snowbirds, you know that the gears in Mr. Hudy's head are spinning at max RPM to figure out what he needs to change - and with all the changes that he already made, my gut tells me he is going to make a bunch of changes to "refine" the car for 2011 - to make that car "better" once again. But at what cost to the driver? The T2 to '007 rubber conversion kit sold for $210. And what if you can't upgrade to the new T3 like when Xray went fromthe '007 to '008? Bah!

So to me, as a newbie, its just not worth it to go out and buy a new T3. Yes, there is the potential that I could be "better" with the T3, but for $480, it's just not worth it until my lap times are super consistent and I'm within 1-2 (2-3?) seconds of the fast guys, cause for $480, that's the most I think I could expect to gain from buying the new car - and that's only if I've already maxed out the potential of the '007.

Last edited by rmdhawaii; 02-16-2010 at 10:37 PM.
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Unread 02-17-2010, 12:46 AM   #47
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My used 08 Phi is running great...that said if looking for a new car right now I'd be looking at the Photon. That car just has so much grip right out of the box it is surprising. I'm curious about the new 3Racing car and may get that when it comes out just to have something different. It has some interesting design ideas that I like.
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Unread 02-17-2010, 01:06 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
So to me, as a newbie, its just not worth it to go out and buy a new T3. Yes, there is the potential that I could be "better" with the T3, but for $480, it's just not worth it until my lap times are super consistent and I'm within 1-2 (2-3?) seconds of the fast guys, cause for $480, that's the most I think I could expect to gain from buying the new car - and that's only if I've already maxed out the potential of the '007.
Well said!

As casual club racers, we may never exploit the full capabilities of basically any chassis, be it a classic TC3 or a superfantabulasticly latest and greatest T3 '00?, unless we are out there practising and messing with set-ups at the track almost daily, hours on end. Many can easily get caught up in the hype of year to year updates/versions like Xray's and Tamiya's, but the truth of the matter is, we might never notice the difference.
Many at RWH are using two, thee and four year old chassis in the top two classes(13.5 - 17.5). There's even a TC4(remember Dean at the nitro track?) that seems as every bit as competitive as the newer cars. Heck, Buggymaster and I run the Losi JRXS TYPE-R, whch since it's release in early 2007, has never received any factory updates....NEVER., yet you wouldn't think it needed any updates by how well BuggyM wheels the car. So...in this case, I don't think the car should be in question (unless you go back to the early TC's like TA-04's, RS4 and such.).

IMO, all you need to do with your T2 '007 is to keep it, run it, get a ballpark setup on it, and start practicing, fine tuning your setup as you go along. Along with practice comes consistancy and less mistakes and thats where that 1 - 3 seconds(and even a tenth or two, or three etc..) come into play.
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Unread 02-17-2010, 05:34 PM   #49
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Hate to admit it, but I can match the lap times of my 416 with my Tb03. Well, the body has a lot to do with it though. But the 416 feels it has more potential, but I'm not that good to make use of it. Probably have to be like Masami level to get it out.

I wouldn't be surprised it P2 and Buggymaster wins with a TT-01.
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Unread 02-17-2010, 10:49 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FREAKAH View Post
Along with practice comes consistency and less mistakes and thats where that 1 - 3 seconds(and even a tenth or two, or three etc..) come into play.
With this in mind, I started analyzing some race results and I came up with some very interesting findings...

Note that standard deviation is calculated using the Excel formula, not by using the individual time minus average values.








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