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Unread 05-05-2007, 01:49 AM   #51
young_version
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hey guys i didnt put up this thread to show off my car, it's a tech thread. if you guys would like, feel free to post how to's, mods, and pictures of your creations!!!! this thread is a tech thread.......so put tech in it.I think we should have an off topic thread for chit chat like thongs and chickens and such, but guys if you dont mind, i would like to learn more about setup and proper racing adjustments, thats kinda why i started this thread......please understand, i dont mean to seem like a jerk or anything.

Last edited by young_version; 05-05-2007 at 08:12 AM.
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Unread 05-05-2007, 06:22 AM   #52
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One thing I noticed about this forum is that most threads will eventually go off topic! I'm not sure if there's anything we can do about it.
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Unread 05-05-2007, 07:27 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manny
One thing I noticed about this forum is that most threads will eventually go off topic! I'm not sure if there's anything we can do about it.
Hey stay on topic Manny! Yay Thong!

By the way, what length Tamiya shocks is everyone using on their Minis?

What is the difference between the Mini CVD Shocks and the Super Mini CVD Shocks?

Will a Magenta Thong clash with Herbie's Double Pink V6 Chicken Outfit? LOL!
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Unread 05-05-2007, 07:35 AM   #54
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The Super Mini CVDs are slightly shorter and allow you to run the car lower. You'll need to get a set of the Short Hard Tamiya Touring Car Springs (I don't know the stock #). I'm going to be experimenting with different shock lengths this weekend.

Holy Crap, we're back on topic...just when I was giving up hope!
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Unread 05-05-2007, 08:24 AM   #55
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super mini cvas allow for more shock articulation at a lower point, the upper body from cap to cap is shorter by about the length of the lower cap, this allows the shock to compress to a much shorter length, thus giving you a lower control point or ride height.The arms actually sit level.you'll need to put a substantial amount of spacers in the shock below the piston to adjust droop, your preload should set the ride height seeing as how the m-03 has no droop screws. i've found that little droop in front and a little more in the rear works pretty good.Tech racing makes a "TRF" style super mini length with threaded bodies, but it's overly expensive.
Thats all for now, now back to the subject. What's herbie wearing to the track on sunday, i think im going to paint my nissan cube with chicken blood, you guys think a True Flame paint scheme would work?
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Unread 05-05-2007, 08:28 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manny
The Super Mini CVDs are slightly shorter and allow you to run the car lower. You'll need to get a set of the Short Hard Tamiya Touring Car Springs (I don't know the stock #). I'm going to be experimenting with different shock lengths this weekend.

Holy Crap, we're back on topic...just when I was giving up hope!
Is anybody using longer shocks and raising the upper mounts (custom shock towers) to get more compression travel and more rebound travel too? Even with the lower ride heights, that most folks prefer, I would think that preventing the shock from bottoming out before the chassis would be beneficial. Or is it the other way around??????

More importantly, what about Magenta Thongs and Double Pink V6 Chicken Outfits? Will they clash and will sport tuning them black be considered too "avante guard" for this summer's fashion season?
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Unread 05-05-2007, 10:49 AM   #57
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Manny do you use the short springs that only comes in pairs
Part # 53630 (red soft), 53631 (yellow med),53632 (blue hard) and 53633 (white extra hard)

Or the short spring set #53333?

The springs sold in pairs are a little shorter than the springs in the short spring set.

I am using 3racing TA05 threaded shocks. They are a little longer than what would be ideal I guess. But I like them and I had them on hand I was able to get them to allow my suspension arms to sit just above level (this was the lowest I could go) Running 60wt. oil and a 2 hole piston in them.

Going to try the short blue hard 53632 springs on the front. Could'nt find the yellow springs to use on the rear. Not sure how it will work as the springs that came with my 3racing shocks are stiffer than the blue springs.

I do have the short spring set as well but again not sure how I will like them since the 3racing springs are stiffer and I liked how my car was running with them.

I like your idea Avery to raise the upper shock mounting point. Wish I had the means to make a shock tower extender? hehe

Hey Kila do you think the carbon fiber plates you have could be used to raise the upper shock mount location?

Is there a preference for the Universals? I have the chrome tamiya (53205)ones, but saw that they have a black set (53597) as well and these look to be rebuildable.

With the TA03 ball diff is it best to just pretty much lock it?

Last edited by Xtant3150c; 05-05-2007 at 10:56 AM.
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Unread 05-05-2007, 10:59 AM   #58
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the 3 racing ones are fine, i use S.L.F. shocks that are meant for the Ta03, i think if the shock went any lower the chassis would hit the ground, thus defeating the purpose of suspension anyway.so for my car the front shock bottoms out when the chassis is about 1mm off the ground, the rear is much higher(6mm) and has a little droop when you lift the rear off the ground.
as far as the shock braces are concerned i dont think they are adjustable, you would have to fab up a tower to get the adjustability
the chrome ones are universals, black ones are swing shafts and rebuild-able
ta03 diff is useless, sell it to me..........jk instead of ball diff grease lube it with anti wear grease, dave should have some. i would lock it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtant3150c
Wish I had the means to make a shock tower extender? hehe
coming from you thats pretty funny, i could've sworn you had a rockcrawler at some point, how could you not? i think your just LAZY!
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Last edited by young_version; 05-05-2007 at 11:18 AM. Reason: Automerged
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Unread 05-05-2007, 02:29 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtant3150c
Manny do you use the short springs that only comes in pairs
Part # 53630 (red soft), 53631 (yellow med),53632 (blue hard) and 53633 (white extra hard)

Or the short spring set #53333?

John I use the set that comes in pairs.. currently white/blue fr/rr. The touring car spring set 53333 looks like it might be too soft, but I haven't tried them yet.

Has anyone here ever tried the aftermarket gears? Someone makes a set that are the same ratio as stock and another set (which would be illegal even for us) is an over drive set.
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Unread 05-05-2007, 05:14 PM   #60
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go with the miki delrin ones they are the stock ratio and no need for lube, delrin seems to have oils in it already very light and low drag, only problem is the diff only allows for gear type, other wise you can use your other diff..........perfect for me as i opted for the gear diff any how.it comes with an extra gear as the kit is for the ff series cars as well, my guess is bigger car more gearing?????but yah you end up using only 3 gears the long one the diff one and the small one that goes to the pinion.
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Unread 05-06-2007, 11:42 PM   #61
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Today's practice resulted in carnage, i found out the hard way that when you use a sport tuned motor and a heat sink spacer plate the tranny machines itself. I tapped the curb and what little "meat" the pinion had on the shaft, it made itself wobble and destroy the counter gear, luckily i did'nt grease up the tranny. Upon inspection i found lots of gear dust and no gear. Worked out good though, all i had to do was blow it out.in went the Miki delrin ones and they seem to be smoother. the chrome sucks, it started flaking.......under the chassis my car was waaaaaay to stiff,maybe it's the tires, maybe the suspension has to break in? oh BTW, if any of you guys get the delrin arms, just a tip.........put a drop of CA in the lower shock mountbefore you screw it in, the delrin is so slippery that the mount will pivot. okay that is all.
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Unread 05-07-2007, 12:45 AM   #62
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So how are you guys measuring your cars? I'm sure not everyones got a set-up board with all of the bells and whistles.

Stuff like ride height and toe has proven a little tricky for me with just a ruler and some calipers. Perhaps i'm missing something and measuring in the wrong places witt these "primative tools"? Should I pop for one or two measuring devices?
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Unread 05-07-2007, 07:27 AM   #63
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allyou need is a washing machine or a pretty flat surface, camber gauge and my tc4 came a droop gauge ,it also doe ride height
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Unread 05-07-2007, 10:08 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by young_version
the 3 racing ones are fine, i use S.L.F. shocks that are meant for the Ta03, i think if the shock went any lower the chassis would hit the ground, thus defeating the purpose of suspension anyway.so for my car the front shock bottoms out when the chassis is about 1mm off the ground, the rear is much higher(6mm) and has a little droop when you lift the rear off the ground.
as far as the shock braces are concerned i dont think they are adjustable, you would have to fab up a tower to get the adjustability
the chrome ones are universals, black ones are swing shafts and rebuild-able
ta03 diff is useless, sell it to me..........jk instead of ball diff grease lube it with anti wear grease, dave should have some. i would lock it.


coming from you thats pretty funny, i could've sworn you had a rockcrawler at some point, how could you not? i think your just LAZY!
O.K. You caught me I was trying to find a lazy way to make the tower :P I have a crawler sort of?hehe Waiting for an esc for it. And getting a pimpslap chassis.

K back on topic

I liked the short short blue tamiya springs up front, but need to change the 3racing springs in back to the tamiya short blue or yellow spring? The back end of my m03m was hopping around more than usual yesterday.

I need to put another 2-3mm spacer inside the rear shock to.

And I had a steering rod end go bad! It won't sit on the ball stud correctly.
Despite this when the rod was on correctly the car tracked straight and seem to have more steering with the ball diff and uni's.

I forgot about asking Dave for some AntiWare Grease. I did lock the ball diff and it seemed to be working well. But with my near death batts I just could'nt push it hard enough to really see a difference.

Man I probably would have sold you the ball diff had I known you were looking. Adding the universals and ball diff are against my if it works leave it alone attitude

Guess I need to take my car apart to clean off the grease on the gears and relube the ball diff. I will be heading to Dave's on wednesday for some anti wear grease and hopefully a black can motor

How do you guys think a locked gear diff would work? Kind of like a spool?
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Unread 05-07-2007, 11:59 AM   #65
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AW grease is more of a gear grease then a diff grease. A ball diff should be adjustable enough to not need such a thick grease to make it work right. Though the last mini ball diff I looked at for someone definately had some issues and would not tighten enough to work right. I think the problem was the spring washer setup was pretty odd or something. I'm sure AW will probably work but I'd be curious to figure out why the ball diffs are having so many problems and fix that instead.
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Unread 05-07-2007, 12:51 PM   #66
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From my experience, the stealth diff lube(clear one)from associated works the best for ball diff. For the thrust bearing, use the associated black grease. If you use AW grease, make sure you don't get it on to the diff balls or rings. The diff rings have a rounded edge on one side. Place this rounded side towards the diff balls. You can also try wet sanding the rings with 1500 grit. Use a pane of glass or something smooth and even to place the paper, then sand the rings in a circular motion. You can try using an eraser to hold the rings with an even pressure. I noticed that the ta03 ball diff is hard to make smooth. The use of carbide diff balls, though expensive, will make it smoother and little more maintenance free.

Last edited by inpuressa; 05-07-2007 at 12:54 PM.
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Unread 05-07-2007, 05:20 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inpuressa
From my experience, the stealth diff lube(clear one)from associated works the best for ball diff. For the thrust bearing, use the associated black grease. If you use AW grease, make sure you don't get it on to the diff balls or rings. The diff rings have a rounded edge on one side. Place this rounded side towards the diff balls. You can also try wet sanding the rings with 1500 grit. Use a pane of glass or something smooth and even to place the paper, then sand the rings in a circular motion. You can try using an eraser to hold the rings with an even pressure. I noticed that the ta03 ball diff is hard to make smooth. The use of carbide diff balls, though expensive, will make it smoother and little more maintenance free.

Good advice. Thanks for letting me try out your car on Sunday. The newer designs sure do turn well!
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Unread 05-08-2007, 12:08 AM   #68
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Lol, yes the new gen TCs are incredible. Especially with the tire technology of today. Just need to find a good way so my fuel cell(?) won't come spilling out...
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Unread 05-08-2007, 07:21 AM   #69
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tape it with new tape every run!!
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Unread 05-08-2007, 08:11 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avery
Is anybody using longer shocks and raising the upper mounts (custom shock towers) to get more compression travel and more rebound travel too? Even with the lower ride heights, that most folks prefer, I would think that preventing the shock from bottoming out before the chassis would be beneficial. Or is it the other way around??????
The upper front shock mount already rubs on most bodies I have. But I would like to make a shock tower with different upper shock mounting and camber link positions. Because the cars aren't coming down from high jumps as in off road I'm not sure it matters if the chassis or shocks bottom out. I usually want the chassis to bottom out and transfer the energy over a larger area than if the shocks bottom out first.

BTW I will hereby no longer respond to the parts of posts that have reference to

1) Chicken Talons

2) Thongs

3) Chicken Blood

4) Burt in Thongs

We must stand up to this!
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Unread 05-08-2007, 08:34 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manny
The upper front shock mount already rubs on most bodies I have. But I would like to make a shock tower with different upper shock mounting and camber link positions. Because the cars aren't coming down from high jumps as in off road I'm not sure it matters if the chassis or shocks bottom out. I usually want the chassis to bottom out and transfer the energy over a larger area than if the shocks bottom out first.

BTW I will hereby no longer respond to the parts of posts that have reference to

1) Chicken Talons

2) Thongs

3) Chicken Blood

4) Burt in Thongs

We must stand up to this!
TRUE!
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Unread 05-08-2007, 08:58 AM   #72
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If you are using the plastic front uprights, you can shave couple mm off the top portion where the kingpin goes to. Then you shim the bottom side to cover the offset, and you can drop the car while retaining the original suspension geometry.

Oh, there's news that Tamiya will announce the "TA05TRF" kit.
And yey! the Hotshot will be released with a new drive shaft, and updated shocks.

Last edited by inpuressa; 05-08-2007 at 09:18 AM.
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Unread 05-08-2007, 09:35 AM   #73
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Keiji...I will blow your doors off in the upcoming Hotshot onroad class!!!! BTW are you talking about the M03 uprights or the TA05 uprights? Kila wants to keep this thread on topic....
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Unread 05-08-2007, 10:10 AM   #74
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Here is the result of my bad steering rod end!

Notice the tire wear on the right side tire in the pic.

Time to rotate tires
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Unread 05-08-2007, 10:33 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manny
1) Chicken Talons

2) Thongs

3) Chicken Blood

4) Burt in Thongs

We must stand up to this!
Manny - STAY ON TOPIC!!!!

I don't know "Fighting Chicken Blood" should be Number 1 and "Burt in Thongs" should NOT be in the top ten! LOL!

I'm almost done with my MO4 graphite saddle pack chassis project. Now to find that ABC Mini Ferrari Dino body I have laying around or maybe a Kawada 356 or maybe a Kawada Lotus Elan.

YAY MID ENGINED REAR WHEEL DRIVE MINI WITH FERRARI BODY!!!!!

YAY CHEEEEKEN BLOOD!
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