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Unread 05-19-2007, 10:14 AM   #1
young_version
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Default Sedan Setup, TIPS, and tricks

Burt maybe you can sticky these! it's getting hard too find useful info while filtering through pink thongs and chit chat. im going to make a sub-catagory for each vehicle of interest.
Guys these threads are meant only for info, not chit chat gibberish. thanks, if you got a problem with that, dont post in these threads, ill delete them myself.
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Unread 05-19-2007, 10:39 AM   #2
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These are information threads. Please stay on topic. Sillyness will be deleted from these threads...you have other threads for that.
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Unread 05-22-2007, 07:23 AM   #3
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Hey guys,
There seems to be a lot of different cars out there every Sunday. I was wondering what chassis everyone drives and how you ended up choosing your car. Whether there's some technical reason you bought your car or if you just think it's cool. Who knows, you might convince someone to get the same chassis.....And please don't bash someone elses car .....

I picked up my HPI Pro3 on closeout for $110 a few years back. Adding a top brace and graphite shock towers made it a competitive car against MR4tc's, TC3's and 414m2's that were popular during the day. I really like the center mounted batteries; no matter how heavy batteries get, I'll always be balanced! The car is really showing it's age because it doesn't have droop screws or infinitely adjustable suspension mounts like modern cars do. But I think it handles great and has just the right amount of flex with the tub chassis.

Here's my graphite chassis Pro3 that's never been run.
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Unread 05-22-2007, 08:33 AM   #4
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I've got a 414M2 that will likely come out to play someday. I picked it for a couple of reasons...first being I am not a fan of the whole battery mounted on the side of the chassis design that is prevalent today. I prefer across the chassis, saddle pack, or in-line setups. Long ago I had a RoadRunner Xpress car that handled awesome. The 414M2 has design features that are very similar to the RoadRunner so I started looking around for one. When I found one for a real good price I couldn't say no.
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Unread 05-22-2007, 09:08 AM   #5
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I got a EVO IV because of all the pretty blue aluminum parts!
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Unread 05-22-2007, 10:47 AM   #6
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I got a TA05 for its unique drivetrain layout. Then went to carbon... but the car is MUCH easier to clean now.

Manny's pro3 is on rails!. That center batt layout is really good for handling. Too bad you can't fuse the TA05 with the Pro3. The 05's motor layout is due to this thingy called gyro effect. Ever tried to spin a bike wheel holding it on its axis? If you try to tilt it, you can feel it trying to straighten out. The same force acts on a motor. By putting this "force" towards the center, you can get a better balanced car. ...So says the TA05 perfect guide book.

Since there is less weight in the back, the rear gets pretty happy. I'm sure most of you noticed that in my car last race. My experience with the Pro2 didn't help too much there. Still need to dial the suspension a little more.

Now, the new Ta05MS version puts the motor a little more behind. It's in between the 05 and 415. I don't know if you can call this an 05 anymore since the belts are not equal length.

Thinking of getting a front one-way, but does it really add to the top speed?

Last edited by inpuressa; 05-22-2007 at 11:01 AM.
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Unread 05-22-2007, 02:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamiyageek808
I got a EVO IV because of all the pretty blue aluminum parts!

I miss saddle packs and tape
ended up with the EVO IV cus Jimmy sold it for cheap and Dave said it was phast lol

or wus it cuz Jeff is my hero
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Unread 05-22-2007, 03:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inpuressa
Thinking of getting a front one-way, but does it really add to the top speed?
i think the front one way helps with turn in ....so to answer your question, no, the oneway does not add to "top speed" but does increase corner speed, hence faster lap times. (my experience)


i just picked up the TA05-R...and i think its not a bad kit at all! one of the easiest kits i have ever put together.

I have a TRF415MSX that i absolutly love and also have a TRF415MS that i had redone in GOLD! (call it the Gold-Member) but i think i am going to retire these cars.

I will just run the TA05-R until the TRF version of it comes out.

Last edited by TRFracer; 05-22-2007 at 03:29 PM.
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Unread 05-24-2007, 06:49 AM   #9
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From what I've read on Rctech.net and other websites, the TA05 has an excellent reputation. Although it's price point makes it a "low budget" racer, apparently it can keep up with a lot of the high end cars.

I like the way Tamiya uses the same suspension for many of it's cars and keeps the suspension upgrades downward compatible. I've been thinking of using the short wheelbase (TA04ss) suspenion arms on my TA05. They move the rear wheels forward a bit and that would put a greater percentage of weight on the rear tires. The shorter wheelbase would also make the car more nimble around a small track.....Something to try in the future.
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Unread 05-24-2007, 05:34 PM   #10
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Manny that Pro3 looks Killahz!

I had a Pro3 back when they used to race at night at Flemings. But it was just around the time when they stopped!

Kind of wish I held on to it.

But I am using a Pro4 now. I got it because it was cheap!!!! Bought more to get into drifting again, but than found out about the OCS!

It's pretty adjustable and easy to drive. Took some getting used to the front one-way. Would like to try a front ball diff one day. Also the fact that I have never raced a TC before!hehehe

It is a bit of a pain to work on. Having to remove the upper deck to get to the spur/diffs. But that does add to the fun of R/C ing!

I would'nt mind getting into a cyclone or ta05 one day?
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Unread 05-24-2007, 06:41 PM   #11
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i chose the ta04 because i didnt have to build it, and it was an affordable alternative to what i really wanted, a 415msx. its old, but it drives really good, really thats all that matters to me at this point. It has all the hop ups that you could want on it, i also have a ssg bottom deck on hold at sf's but i need to locate a few more parts to make this work before i install it. pics later.
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Unread 05-24-2007, 09:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CP-28
I miss saddle packs and tape
ended up with the EVO IV cus Jimmy sold it for cheap and Dave said it was phast lol

or wus it cuz Jeff is my hero
Nah John, you were my hero first.....someone I could look up to for inspiration and meaning in life......who am I kidding!

I love my EVO IV........"jus set it and forget it!"

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Unread 05-25-2007, 02:08 AM   #13
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just set it and forget it.....until you strip the front diff pinion gears right?...winkwink
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Unread 05-25-2007, 09:20 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRFracer
just set it and forget it.....until you strip the front diff pinion gears right?...winkwink
That happens when ya strap in a 5.5 brushless setup! Crazy Fast! LOL!
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Unread 05-29-2007, 02:07 PM   #15
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Ok, this is for Jimmy that had questions about the 415 or anyone with sedans
Tires: I like the Sorex brands. Rides and TakeOff are also just as good. The same compound on all four corners will be good. the 40Rs work well out there when it's blistering like the last race. 36Rs are good overall, but starts to lose traction when it's too hot. 32Rs are good when we have those overcast days, or when the race carries on into the night. Tires make up about 70-80% of the handling, so the choice is important.

Shocks/Springs: Using the TRF shocks, 2 hole pistons w/40wt is a good starting point. I honestly think shock oil won't make much diff unless you jump to a 90wt. For springs, you can use the spring set(53440). I think the 415 comes with yellow all around, but try balance the front to use a harder spring than the rear. For summer(which we are constantly in) try whites on the front, and blue on the rear. I used yellow front, red rear, but the car still seemed to roll too much. The same concept applies for sways. Key to using the one way, is to get as much grip for the rear, and to adjust the handling up at the front. The car turns too good as it is, so you need some understeer more than a full time drive train.

Alignment: Front can be set to 0degree. For the rear, if you want stability, give it more toe-in. If you want it to be twitchy (and more speed) you can bring it closer to 0degrees. It is recommended for the 415 to have 2degrees rear toe. Some racers even bring it close to 3.5. Manny however, had his to 1degree(no front oneway). On a tech track, that may be the way to go.

For all you Evolution users, here is a tip I found:
http://www.tiny.jp/~s-ito/lab/chassis/tb/evo4/tips.html
Scroll down to the bottom and you can see that this guy wrapped fiber reinforced tape to strengthen the drive shaft cup. One top of this he put those alloy rings that is used for the differential outdrives. John M. broke his this last race(F/R) so this mod may save your life.

Hope these tips help.
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Unread 05-29-2007, 02:52 PM   #16
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You know, these setups are for "normal" conditions. What I mean by normal is that the ground is "flat". Our tracks are constantly at an angle, making it difficult to find an all rounder setup. Turning into a downhill will give you oversteer, and turning up a hill will push your car. If the car is at it's grip limit, it will go out of spec when "other" forces are applied. I bet Jimmy's 415 will drive perfectly fine on a flat surface. Do you guys think this is a considerable factor?
I like the track btw, makes it more challenging.
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Unread 05-29-2007, 04:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inpuressa
Ok, this is for Jimmy that had questions about the 415 or anyone with sedans
Tires: I like the Sorex brands. Rides and TakeOff are also just as good. The same compound on all four corners will be good. the 40Rs work well out there when it's blistering like the last race. 36Rs are good overall, but starts to lose traction when it's too hot. 32Rs are good when we have those overcast days, or when the race carries on into the night. Tires make up about 70-80% of the handling, so the choice is important.

Shocks/Springs: Using the TRF shocks, 2 hole pistons w/40wt is a good starting point. I honestly think shock oil won't make much diff unless you jump to a 90wt. For springs, you can use the spring set(53440). I think the 415 comes with yellow all around, but try balance the front to use a harder spring than the rear. For summer(which we are constantly in) try whites on the front, and blue on the rear. I used yellow front, red rear, but the car still seemed to roll too much. The same concept applies for sways. Key to using the one way, is to get as much grip for the rear, and to adjust the handling up at the front. The car turns too good as it is, so you need some understeer more than a full time drive train.

Alignment: Front can be set to 0degree. For the rear, if you want stability, give it more toe-in. If you want it to be twitchy (and more speed) you can bring it closer to 0degrees. It is recommended for the 415 to have 2degrees rear toe. Some racers even bring it close to 3.5. Manny however, had his to 1degree(no front oneway). On a tech track, that may be the way to go.

For all you Evolution users, here is a tip I found:
http://www.tiny.jp/~s-ito/lab/chassis/tb/evo4/tips.html
Scroll down to the bottom and you can see that this guy wrapped fiber reinforced tape to strengthen the drive shaft cup. One top of this he put those alloy rings that is used for the differential outdrives. John M. broke his this last race(F/R) so this mod may save your life.

Hope these tips help.

that looks like it would help. it seems especially important if you runthe short chassis support as the car has less torsional rigidity so there may be more load on the center shaft. then again I was "Wonged" by the best so there is a possibility that nothing would have survived that lol.
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Unread 05-29-2007, 07:30 PM   #18
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Oh darn Keiji, you gave away my secret! The reason I use less rear toe is because the cars don't have that much corner speed using our motors so they don't need the extra stability. Hopefully it gives a bit more speed down the straight. I would like to try 0deg. but I can't.
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Unread 05-29-2007, 10:17 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamiyageek808
Nah John, you were my hero first.....someone I could look up to for inspiration and meaning in life......who am I kidding!

I love my EVO IV........"jus set it and forget it!"
nope i remember now it's cuz I look up to Dr. EVO and Jeff
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Unread 05-30-2007, 12:10 PM   #20
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Lol the secret 1degree toe is not recommended for cars with a oneway. Makes the car too twitchy.
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Unread 05-30-2007, 07:51 PM   #21
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actually, i ran my msx with 1.5 rear toe in and front one way....ran fine!

maybe i should go to 2degrees on my TA05....

keiji, what do you run on your TA05?
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Unread 05-30-2007, 08:17 PM   #22
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I didn't get to drive your TA05, Jesus but I drove Keiji's and it drove great! Once you two get them really dialed in I won't have a chance with my Pro3! You guys are gonna make me switch over!
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Unread 05-31-2007, 02:21 AM   #23
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I ran the kit stock 2degree. I do want to experiment with different rear toe. Then it involves buying those confusing suspension blocks...
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Unread 05-31-2007, 04:29 AM   #24
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keiji, are you using the 1 degree rear uprights? if you are, then arent you at 3 degrees toe-in if you are using kit stock sus blocks....?

i believe box stock is 3degrees.... i have to double check...
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Unread 05-31-2007, 09:56 AM   #25
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The instruction states that the suspension mounts are 0, and the uprights are the 2 degree ones.
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