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Unread 05-31-2007, 11:32 AM   #26
TRFracer
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oh, not on the TA05-R kit...
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Unread 05-31-2007, 11:49 AM   #27
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..because it comes with the lightweight reversible suspension!
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Unread 05-31-2007, 01:37 PM   #28
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right...i forgot keijis TA05 isnt an R version....sorry
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Unread 05-31-2007, 02:02 PM   #29
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thanks Keiji and John

Quote:
Originally Posted by CP-28
that looks like it would help. it seems especially important if you runthe short chassis support as the car has less torsional rigidity so there may be more load on the center shaft. then again I was "Wonged" by the best so there is a possibility that nothing would have survived that lol.



Funny John

Last edited by King Of Kings; 05-31-2007 at 02:07 PM. Reason: Automerged
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Unread 06-02-2007, 09:08 AM   #30
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Link to 415 setting sheet.

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/rc/setti...oshi_ifmar.pdf

and evo5

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/rc/setting/evo5_init.pdf
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Unread 06-06-2007, 01:25 PM   #31
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Keiji, man i tried so hard to catch you those first few laps of the Sedahn A-main. your TA05 is just set up better than mine, i gotta do some more tunning!
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Unread 06-06-2007, 02:36 PM   #32
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lol, I got lucky when your receiver decided to glitch, and everyone else started to crash. Those 2X4 did help me when I did some mini4wd action! I needed those bearing equipped side rollers
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Unread 06-06-2007, 07:00 PM   #33
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im afraid to blow the dust off of the 415, it might not drive as good as it did on sunday........
man if i ever had a car that handled so well, i think the car is waaaaaay easier to drive than my prior car. funy ash seemed to have the exact opposite problems that i did with it. but keiji's car was setup perfect.
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Unread 06-06-2007, 08:14 PM   #34
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maybe we should find ash a better car? then we might call him @shwinsum!
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Unread 06-07-2007, 02:51 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRFracer
maybe we should find ash a better car? then we might call him @shwinsum!
I dont think its the car,its the loose nut thats behind the control.

Quote:
Originally Posted by young_version
im afraid to blow the dust off of the 415, it might not drive as good as it did on sunday........
man if i ever had a car that handled so well, i think the car is waaaaaay easier to drive than my prior car. funy ash seemed to have the exact opposite problems that i did with it. but keiji's car was setup perfect.
Yah i need more steering out of the ta04. Its the first car that I have driven with a one-way diff thats pushed so much.
I am running 2 degree rear uprights, should I go to 0?
The other variable that I think that is making a difference is the fact that im running a stock servo.

Last edited by @SHCRASHEM; 06-07-2007 at 02:56 AM. Reason: Automerged
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Unread 06-07-2007, 09:13 AM   #36
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Did you rebuild the entire car? Sometimes, suspension binds or stuck bearings may be the cause. What shocks are you using? Try two piston 40wt all around w/ yellow springs(op53440) as a starter. Leave the 2 degree if you can. It will become too squirly if it is 0. Tires make up 70% of performance. You can try to put softer compound up front, but it is best to keep them all the same. What tires are you running?

As for servos, I recommend to put a faster servo in. Especially for a track like the ATM, a slow servo's lack of speed may make you think that it is pushing. It's just that the wheels aren't steering fast enough for quick transitions.

That car handled well when I ran with it at a shake down run at Sandy's. I can help you out the next time we go there.
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Unread 06-07-2007, 10:45 AM   #37
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I always felt with sedans tires were more like 80 or 90% of the car's performance...I never really could tell much of a difference with a change of spring. Tires, Camber, and Toe seem to make the most differences. If the back end is planted well I'd try something different up front. Maybe a little toe out at the front or a different camber.
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Unread 06-07-2007, 03:03 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
I always felt with sedans tires were more like 80 or 90% of the car's performance...I never really could tell much of a difference with a change of spring. Tires, Camber, and Toe seem to make the most differences. If the back end is planted well I'd try something different up front. Maybe a little toe out at the front or a different camber.
I agree for if you have the wrong tires no amount of suspension tuning seems to be able to fix it. but a the right set of tires it seems can get a marginal car much closer to ideal. this seems to be in direct relation to full size cars where tire choice is the most important parameter on performance
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Unread 06-10-2007, 03:36 AM   #39
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I am running :sorex 36, hpi shocks w/ tamiya teflon 2 hole piston and yellow springs. Im going to change the servo before trying anything else.

Quote:
Originally Posted by inpuressa
Did you rebuild the entire car? Sometimes, suspension binds or stuck bearings may be the cause. What shocks are you using? Try two piston 40wt all around w/ yellow springs(op53440) as a starter. Leave the 2 degree if you can. It will become too squirly if it is 0. Tires make up 70% of performance. You can try to put softer compound up front, but it is best to keep them all the same. What tires are you running?

As for servos, I recommend to put a faster servo in. Especially for a track like the ATM, a slow servo's lack of speed may make you think that it is pushing. It's just that the wheels aren't steering fast enough for quick transitions.

That car handled well when I ran with it at a shake down run at Sandy's. I can help you out the next time we go there.
I never ran this car at Sandy's, I have 2 of them.

Last edited by @SHCRASHEM; 06-10-2007 at 03:39 AM. Reason: Automerged
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Unread 06-14-2007, 03:30 PM   #40
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After the last race at BTA I found myself needing some new threads. I heard about this item from YV so I picked up one to help glue 16 tires.(8 mini and 8 touring)

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53338

It includes an adapter for mini tires
I just did one tire and WOW, it is so helpful to not glue my fingers to the brand new sorex's.

EDC
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Unread 12-30-2007, 03:17 AM   #41
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Im building my 415 and was wondering what steering blocks I should use? 2 or 4 deg?
Was the general rule the further back the kingpin, the more steering you will have?
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Unread 12-30-2007, 04:35 PM   #42
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generally, the more further back the kingpin = more caster, the more steering you have coming out of turns. i have 4 degrees on my car but there were lots of times i felt i would have benefited with 2 degrees.
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Unread 12-30-2007, 11:07 PM   #43
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I use 4degrees too. Tried the 2deg before, but it was a little too twitchy for me. more caster gives you stability, which you need for a tight track like ours. as for moving the kingpin back (i assume your sus arms?) does give you more steering, but you will alter the F/R weight balance so you need to watch out. by shortening the wheelbase, you will get a smaller turning radius, but puts more material to the overhang F/R of the car. It's like putting a bag of rice at the front of the shopping cart versus in the center... Try building it kit stock first and see how that goes. We should have a practice session in Jan. so come by.

Last edited by inpuressa; 12-30-2007 at 11:10 PM.
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Unread 02-01-2008, 10:51 PM   #44
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Hey guys I am stuck in last years GT class!hehehe

Well as far as motor goes. I am still going to run the black can since scoring a new one

Anyways any ideas for an FDR for my Pro4 with the Black Can? Since the FDR is now open. I was thinking somewhere between 5.67 to 6.00?

ThanX for any help
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Unread 02-05-2008, 11:47 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtant3150c
Hey guys I am stuck in last years GT class!hehehe

Well as far as motor goes. I am still going to run the black can since scoring a new one

Anyways any ideas for an FDR for my Pro4 with the Black Can? Since the FDR is now open. I was thinking somewhere between 5.67 to 6.00?

ThanX for any help
Anyone
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Unread 02-05-2008, 03:42 PM   #46
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hmm, maybe it's not a good idea to run the blk can any lower than the 6.58 we had it. It gets hot enough as it is, and putting anymore strain will make it more prone to overheating. Get a GTTuned man!
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Unread 02-05-2008, 03:48 PM   #47
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ThanX Keiji!

I refuse to buy a GT tuned Motor!

If I have to chug along with my Black Can so be it.

By the way what car are you running this season? Just wondering as I saw you sold your 416?
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Unread 02-05-2008, 04:42 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inpuressa
hmm, maybe it's not a good idea to run the blk can any lower than the 6.58 we had it. It gets hot enough as it is, and putting anymore strain will make it more prone to overheating. Get a GTTuned man!
Maybe...or maybe it's like the F201. The stock gear ratio with the F201 burned up black cans badly but with the high speed gear set they lasted a decent amount of time. Wish I could remember what the FDRs were for stock and high speed gear sets.
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Unread 02-05-2008, 07:09 PM   #49
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lol that was just a test to see how the ad function worked

the black can is faster rpm wise, but not sure about lowering the ratio.
At the test and tune, D's had the black can and had some good runs with wayne's gttuned @6.0 so things should be pretty close.
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Unread 02-05-2008, 08:57 PM   #50
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O.K. Keiji you had me wondering what was up?hehehe

Burt the FDR for the F201 is Stock 7.15 and High Speed Gear Set 5.88.

So I guess the 6.58 is right in the middle of that. I may try something around 6.0 just for the heck of it?
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