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Unread 05-19-2007, 10:30 AM   #1
young_version
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Default 1/12 Scale On Road

This one is for all you "good" drivers
The brothers Bautista
Manny
Avery
Jesus
Frank
i cant remember everyone but yeah, you know.
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Unread 05-19-2007, 10:38 AM   #2
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These are information threads. Please stay on topic. Sillyness will be deleted from these threads...you have other threads for that.
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Unread 05-19-2007, 11:08 AM   #3
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So far Pink rear and Purple fronts have been the tire of choice but Magenta seems like it has real good possibilities as well. I've been hearing it's slightly higher rubber content then pink gives it a bit more bit on asphault. I know Jesus tried them on his car and it worked well.

Your going to want a bit of ride height. The track isn't quite as level as it looks. I've been running a 5mm ride height and find that is working well. I think T-bar cars can probably run a bit lower as they seem to have a bit less roll then link cars. IRS ride height adapters are a big help in the back. Instead of the 3 sizes you get a lot more which really helps to fine tune the ride height to where you need it. The CRC shims for the front are good to have as well. I would reccomend 2 sets though because often 1 set hasn't been enough and I've had to use other things. I haven't tried the graphite ones yet but plan to. I hear they are much better then the plastic ones because they don't compress.

I'm playing around with a bit more camber right now and the car seemed to like it in the last race. Instead of the traditional 1 degree I was running 1.5 degree with 0 toe. Right now I'm debating bumping that up to 2 degrees and I think I'll run a toe-in of .5 degrees.

Shocks...the CRC and IRS shocks are a much better shock then the AE shock. Personally I think the IRS is the best of the 3 as it doesn't use a pressed on piston. The spring you use will depend on your car type...it varies a lot depending on the car. T-bar cars can use a softer spring because they are partly sprung by the T-bar itself. Link cars are going to run a heavier spring. All 3 shocks seem to have slightly different tolerances in the piston as well so your choice of shock oil will be slightly different. My IRS seemed best so far at 30wt.

Well that's all for now...I'll post some more later
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Unread 05-19-2007, 02:29 PM   #4
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Ok more info Here is a really good blog that is very detailed about setting up a CRC CK3.2R. Much of this blog is good for all 1/12th scale cars and really shows the amount of work that can go into setting up a 1/12th.

http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

I don't nearly as extreme in the accuracy of my setup as he does but it does help to know the stuff he talks about here. It seems today's top drivers are no longer using the tweak adjustment in 1/12th scale. Instead they balance their car left to right and carefully build their front suspension to take any tweak out of the car due to weight imbalance or poor molding. Then they bring the tweak adjustment down until both sides just barely touch the chassis, springs in the case of a link car or tweak screws on a t-bar car.
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Unread 05-19-2007, 07:46 PM   #5
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one thing i noticed, my car was set at 3.5 ride hight, and my chassis kept scraping the loop wire! so after i raised it up, no more scrape-age.

magentas are lovely! for now on, that's all i will ever use.

i just wish 1/12 scale bodies lasted longer....

Quote:
Originally Posted by young_version
This one is for all you "good" drivers
The brothers Bautista
Manny
Avery
Jesus
Frank
i cant remember everyone but yeah, you know.
LOL!! "good drivers" just because i wheel a pancar doesn't mean i'm "good"....in japan i always got my a$$ handed to me!

Last edited by TRFracer; 05-19-2007 at 07:48 PM. Reason: Automerged
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Unread 05-21-2007, 02:09 AM   #6
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I noticed a big difference when I lowered my car. I was scraping the loop wire but I liked how it handled on the infield. I think Im going to put my 23motor back in, I had an old 27 turn that just didnt have any zip
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Unread 05-21-2007, 06:18 AM   #7
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As I recall TRF was having some handling problems before he raised it as well that are better. I think this goes back to if your running a link car or t-bar car...the link cars are working better at higher ride heights where the t-bar cars can run a bit lower because they roll less in the corner and suffer less when the edge of the chassis touches ground.
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Unread 05-21-2007, 11:26 AM   #8
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i need new PRO CUT MAGENTAS!!
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Unread 05-21-2007, 01:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
As I recall TRF was having some handling problems before he raised it as well that are better. I think this goes back to if your running a link car or t-bar car...the link cars are working better at higher ride heights where the t-bar cars can run a bit lower because they roll less in the corner and suffer less when the edge of the chassis touches ground.
indeed, possibly also doe to the rear pivot being further foward on a link car as compared to a t bar car as well a in a different arc.
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Unread 05-22-2007, 10:03 AM   #10
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One tip I forgot to mention that Frank and I got from some mainland guys is in saucing the tires. First use the black can Paragon and let it soak in. Then instead of reapplying Paragon use suntan lotion as the 2nd coat and let that sit for at least 5mins. My application was: 2 heats before 1/12th scale I would apply the Paragon, then the heat right before 1/12th scale I would apply the suntan lotion and wipe them off right before the start. The grip on my car overall felt really good last race...But we'll see more for sure once I can straighten out the problems with the radio and the driver

Last edited by InspGadgt; 05-22-2007 at 10:06 AM.
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Unread 05-22-2007, 02:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
One tip I forgot to mention that Frank and I got from some mainland guys is in saucing the tires. First use the black can Paragon and let it soak in. Then instead of reapplying Paragon use suntan lotion as the 2nd coat and let that sit for at least 5mins. My application was: 2 heats before 1/12th scale I would apply the Paragon, then the heat right before 1/12th scale I would apply the suntan lotion and wipe them off right before the start. The grip on my car overall felt really good last race...But we'll see more for sure once I can straighten out the problems with the radio and the driver

I remember somthing like that at the worlds where they would Paragon or whatever they had to open up the tire so the suntan lotion wold work. also remember motor coolers using dry ice and wet sponges too lol
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Unread 05-23-2007, 09:22 PM   #12
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Could you just use Suntan lotion..I don't have that Paragon stuff. I know XTREME told me to use it, but I didn't know about applying the Paragon first.

Also does SPF become a factor???

thanks
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Unread 05-23-2007, 10:04 PM   #13
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Isn't there a "community" can of Paragon floating around the pits on race days? If you can't find it, you can use my "Orange Traction".
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Unread 05-23-2007, 11:15 PM   #14
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There are 2 cans of community paragon...unless 1 walked away. I keep them with the race equipment. Plus I have a can as well if you need or I even have a new can of the white can (FX II) that can be used. I don't think SPF really matters.
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Unread 05-24-2007, 12:02 AM   #15
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you know I really mis TQ+
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Unread 05-24-2007, 04:05 PM   #16
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Thanks guys...I think that I may have to take advantage of the community stuff...but I do have my own suntan lotion..

thanks guys..
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Unread 05-27-2007, 08:05 PM   #17
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AAWWWRIGHTTTT!!!!

I finally tried out 1/12th scale today and gotta thank everyone for helping me out. Everyone gave me a little here and there and it worked out really well.

I found out my set up is double pink in the rear and purple in the front. Got some words from everyone at the pits and thanks again (way to many names to drop so everyone on my side and then some). That set up worked out pretty well for my driving.

Burt helped me out with the Paragon and the suntan lotion and my 12th scale hooked up beyond my expectation.

I AM HOOKED ON THE 12TH SCALE........Sedan and 12th scale for me...

I did notice that after driving the 12th scale and then racing the heat of sedan that follows that you do need some MAJOR adjusting. I know you verterans know that but it took awhile for me to get back into Sedan mode.

Also Burts way of putting on the Paragon 2 heats before yours and adding Sun tan lotion on the heat prior is the way to go. It worked out for me and well....don't fix it if it aint broke...

Okay...keep more of the info going. I know I'll be checking out this thread alot for the future...

AAAWWRIGHTTTT!!!!
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Unread 06-07-2007, 02:27 PM   #18
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Well I've been giving some thought to my on and off traction problems that I've been having. Often the car seems fine in the qualifiers but then in the main it is loose. Up until now I have been attributing that to the change in temperature of the track. But now I'm starting to re-think that. We've found the link cars are very ride height sensitive and do get loose when the car is too low to the ground. This past 2 races for me started me thinking mine is a ride height problem. 2 races ago the car was blisteringly fast in the qualifiers but again was loose in the main. Then in the last race all I did to prepare was change the front ride height to match the rear and did not reset the overall ride height. Well as many saw my car was loose the whole day last race. So now I'm thinking I am getting just enough tire wear in 2 qualifiers to drop my ride height to the point where the car doesn't handle right. So now the debate I am having with myself is...do I want to readjust ride height after the qualifiers to make sure the main stays good..or do I want to set my initial ride height high enough to account for the tire wear...
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Unread 06-07-2007, 02:28 PM   #19
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Also the new IRS lower front suspension arms should be out soon! They are finally showing on the IRS web site.
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Unread 06-07-2007, 02:59 PM   #20
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just change tires every run
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Unread 06-07-2007, 04:10 PM   #21
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I'm considering that once I verify that is the issue...guess I forgot to include that in the original ideas.
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Unread 06-07-2007, 06:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CP-28
just change tires every run
That might get expensive!
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Unread 06-07-2007, 09:47 PM   #23
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3 sets of tires...bout $120 and just make sure to retrue them every race to the same height and set static ride height to that...not too bad.
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Unread 06-07-2007, 10:54 PM   #24
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Has any one seen this before? Don't know where to get this, but this will make a good up-grade for my RC12L4. What do ya think?

http://www.redrc.net/2007/06/v-dezig...0%9807-photos/
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Unread 06-07-2007, 11:20 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FJR
That might get expensive!
we use to do that back in the Leeward and Makalapa days remember especially in maui where the tire wear was high.
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